History follows everyone in Lithuania. Each person I meet has some tragedy in their family. The wars and continuing conquests of this little land have molded the nation, and it takes a few generations to let go, and move on. 26 years ago, the Soviets attacked the protestors for Lithuanian independence at the Vilnius television tower. On January 13th, there were ceremonies and concerts in remembrance, but now, in 2017, those times seem as distant as the world wars.
These days, Lithuania leads in fast internet, and the country is a modern nation now officially in Northern (not Eastern) Europe. Its citizens fly cheaply around Europe with Wizzair, and take longer vacations to Thailand or the USA. The older people, with the stories, are left behind with their $300/month pensions in their crumbling Soviet built apartment buildings. Driving in the evening, we saw an entire village in darkness, abandoned, its residents probably in England, or Vilnius. I ask what would this country be like if the Jews were still here? It would probably be much more diverse and cosmopolitan. Yiddish, alongside Polish and Lithuanian would be the languages of Vilnius. It is hard to imagine but eventually this place will once again become more multiethnic, as are the big cities of Western Europe.
I continue my work here, and also find time to visit beautiful snowy places. On a hike through the forest near the center of Vilnius, we run into a family with huge German shepherd dogs that look like friendly wolves. They are near the remains of trenches where some fighting occurred, probably in one of the wars near the turn of the 20th century. My friend and I drive to Druskininkai, where we soak in the healing waters, and melt in the saunas. Along the way, we pass the town of Perloja, which had the interesting history of being an independent micro-nation for several years after WWI. Everywhere, more history.
The Kalvarijų Turgus is my favorite market in Vilnius. Here you can buy imported fruits and vegetables, plus local herbs and old nostalgia items from the Soviet days. I bought some nettle tea, and looked at, but did not buy old Russian watches, which are now expensive. The majority of the women selling their wares are Russian speaking. I hear a lot of Russian in the buses too. Lithuanian-speakers drive their cars, and tend to shop at the big supermarkets.
Should I move to Lithuania? My friends and relatives are always encouraging. Yes, there is bureaucracy, and the difficulty of being an outsider. But the farm, and the little apartment in the center of Vilnius are charming. The snowy forests and the lakes of the summer are inviting. It is tempting.